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Management potato storage

Identify the major storage disease problem prior to making any changes to storage management procedures.

Be aware that changes in potato storage management can impact other potato quality attributes, such as fry color and tuber sugar concentrations.
There are three basic tools of storage management:
temperature, humidity, and airflow.

Balanced use of these tools is the key to managing potato diseases in storage.

Cooling period

If potatoes are harvested with pulp temperatures above 60°F, cool them to at least 60°F within the first 2 to 3 days after harvest and maximize the duration of fresh-air intake. This is especially important for tubers with late blight, pink rot, Pythium leak, and soft rot because warmer temperatures promote faster decay.
Supply a high volume of air to the potatoes to decrease tuber temperature and to help dry out rotted or wet potatoes. Set-point temperatures may need to be decreased in a stair-step manner to optimize the duration of fresh air intake per day.

Start operating the ventilation system as soon as the first two to three ducts are covered during loading. Continue to decrease storage temperatures to the desired curing temperature.

Some special circumstances such as colder-than-recommended pulp temperatures or excessive disease may require the advice of an expert. For instance, rapidly warming cool potatoes may cause condensation to form on the surface of the potato and elevate the potential for disease progression.

Curing period

Proper management of the storage facility during the wound healing or “curing period” is critical. The curing period is important for proper healing of cuts and bruises, reducing pathogen spread, and keeping shrinkage losses at a minimum. Wound healing requires oxygen, high humidity, and favorable temperatures.

The recommended storage regime for wound healing and curing is typically 50 to 55°F for 2 to 3 weeks with good ventilation and a relative humidity of 95% and above. Even these relatively cool temperatures will promote rapid breakdown when storage diseases such as pink rot and Pythium leak are present.

Therefore temperatures during curing may need to be lowered to 50°F if disease incidence and severity are high (more than 5% wet rot). However, curing temperatures below
50°F may delay wound healing and are generally not recommended.

Use continuous ventilation to dry out wet potatoes. If “hot spots” begin to develop during curing, supply high airflow to the area to help prevent additional pathogen spread.

Airflow must be sufficient to remove water given off by the decaying tubers. Supplemental ventilation can be supplied by auxiliary fans on top of the pile or in the ducts below troublespots.
Holding period.

After the required curing period, reduce the storage temperature from the curing to the holding temperature as quickly as possible but generally no faster than 0.5°F per day. Limiting the amount of time diseased tubers are held at warmer temperatures will decrease the rate of disease progression.

A slower ramping rate may be more appropriate for potatoes to be processed where sugar concentrations and fry color are a concern.
Although lower holding temperatures typically decrease the rate of disease progression, any storage decision involving temperature adjustments must take into consideration the end-use of the potato. Processing potatoes typically need to be stored at higher temperatures (44° to 55°F) than seed and fresh market potatoes (37° to 45°F) and therefore the luxury of low storage temperatures is not available.

Continuous fan operation and high airflow may still be necessary to dry out wet or problem potatoes, especially those with soft rot, pink rot, or Pythium leak. Continuous ventilation will also reduce the chance for condensation to occur in the storage facility.

Keep in mind that low holding temperatures, while an effective management tool for many situations, are no guarantee that disease progression will stop.

Depending upon the nature and percentage of rot in the storage, the pile may need additional drying ventilation with reduced-humidity air. However, reduced humidity results in additional shrinkage and also delays wound healing, which can increase the incidence of dry rot.

Decreasing relative humidity in storage to 85% or less can also decrease the secondary spread of the silver scurf pathogen. Still, evaluate other management strategies before reducing relative humidity.

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Take care about potato storage between seasons

Orka Vegetable Storage
Image by aMichiganMom via Flickr

Some pathogens, such as the silver scurf pathogen, may survive from one season to the next in the storage facilities themselves. Storages and handling equipment should be cleaned and sanitized or “disinfected” after the storage is emptied and before handling and storing the new crop. Disinfection of storages and handling equipment is a three-step process.

  • Remove dirt and debris. All the disinfectants approved for use in potato storages are rapidly tied up and rendered ineffective by dirt and organic matter. The next two steps of the process will be much more effective if the debris from last year’s crop is removed.
  • Wash with soap and water. This step is often accomplished with a pressure washer and a detergent solution. Warm or hot water will be more effective than cold water. Steam washers are also a good choice but will not actually disinfect storage surfaces or equipment because the duration of the exposure to steam is too short. Water and detergent help to dissolve and remove dried tuber sap and bacterial slimes that are deposited on storage surfaces and equipment, and detergents have some disinfection capability. Cleaned surfaces allow the disinfectant, used in the next step, to work properly.
  • Disinfect. Use an appropriate and registered disinfectant and make sure that the surfaces to be disinfected remain wet with the disinfection solution for at least 10 minutes. Use sufficient sprayer pressure and volume to effectively clean all surfaces.

Many fungal spores have tough, resilient cell walls, and bacteria in storages often occur in the form of dried slime. Ten minutes provides the necessary time for the disinfectant to penetrate the fungal cell wall or dissolve the bacterial slime and kill the pathogen.

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Simple Garden Pest Control

Pest control is one of the biggest issues for gardeners everywhere. Insects can kill a garden quickly, and ruin months of work and planning in a matter of days or weeks. Seeing a prized plant eaten by pests is a heartbreaking event, but it is one that can be kept away from with a little additional work on the part of gardeners. There are many solutions for pest predicaments, from using specific plants to utilizing chemical pesticides.

Identifying Garden Pest predicaments

One of the best ways to stop pest predicaments before they get out of hand is to learn the symptoms of various pests. Looking for the ordinary symptoms of various garden predicaments is a simple way to get pests under control.

Some ordinary symptoms of pest infestation include

  • Small holes in leaves
  • Yellow or brown leaf edges
  • Holes in the stems or petals of plants and flowers
  • Premature leaf loss

Look for the presence of insects like grasshoppers, whiteflies and aphids on plants to determine what type of pest is attacking the garden. Knowing what categories of pests are around can affect the most effective method of pest control.

There are many ways to control pests in a garden, and these can be tailored to solve a particular predicament. Focutilized and specific pest control practices are more surroundingsally friendly, cost-effective and require less labor over time.

Pest Control Services

Hiring a pest control service is a simple way to reduce the presence of garden pests. Pest control services spray pesticides over plants that help to kill eggs and mature insects, rigorously reducing insect populations very quickly. However, there are issues with pest control services that gardeners should admit as true that.

General chemical pest control kills all insects in a garden, including the beneficial ones like honeybees and butterflies, as well as the ladybugs that can help to eat aphids, a ordinary garden pest. Losing these beneficial insects can make a garden less healthy over time, and require more applications of chemicals.

Most chemical pesticides are heavily reliant on fossil fuels for their creation, transportation and application, as well. Oil dependency is surroundingsally risky, and applying these chemicals to a garden can increase both global warming and surroundingsal pollution.

Even though pest control services provide a short-term solution to a serious pest predicament, there are better ways to combat pests in the long term.

Biological Pest Control

Biological pest control is a type of pest control that utilizes organic means to combat infestations of insects. One of the most ordinary categories of biological pest control is the utilize of ladybugs to rigorously reduce aphid populations. Ladybug populations are low due to invasive species, which means that aphid populations can rise quickly.

Many university extension and gardening centers provide biological pest control services. A group of ladybugs released into a garden infested with aphids can eat aphids quickly and effectively, while simultaneously advertising the local population of true ladybugs.

This type of biological pest control can be very effective in controlling garden pests, greenhoutilize pest predicaments and many other areas of gardening.

Planning a Garden for Pest Control

There are a number of ways to plan a garden to more effectively resist pest predicaments. Utilize local, native plants in a garden –these plants have evolved to survive in the area, and are more likely to be pest-resistant. additionally, they require less maintenance, watering and fertilizer.

Plan a garden that utilizes plants that repel pests, such as Artemisia and basil. Chives repel the Japanese beetles that can kill many garden plants, and catnip repels a number of other pest insects. Putting these plants throughout a garden can help keep away insects that would feed on and kill other plants.

utilize plants that attract beneficial predatory insects, as well. Plants like dill attract predatory wasps that reduce pest populations, and attract tomato hornworms that can kill tomato plants. Putting dill at a distance from tomato plants can help protect them. Hyssop is a good plant for attracting beneficial honeybees to a garden, which can then pollinate many flowers.

Pest control is a serious challenge for gardeners. Keeping plants healthy and free of pest insects can take up a great deal of time, effort and money. However, there are simple, easy methods of solving pest predicaments without resorting to chemical pest control. additionally, many of these organic methods can help make a garden even more beautiful.

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