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Onion White Rot Fungal Disease

Sunday, June 13th, 2010
Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum)

Image via Wikipedia

The resting bodies (sclerotia) of onion white rot can survive in the soil without a suitable host for fifteen years. This serious fungal disease can affect any member of the Allium family including onions, spring onions, chives, shallots, garlic and leeks. In order to live with onion white rot in the soil the gardener must first of all be able to recognize it before taking preparations to reduce the debigation it can cautilize. Overwintered onions and garlic are particularly susceptible to onion white rot.

How to Recognize Onion White Rot

  • Evidence of this dastardly disease shows up when the leaves turn yellow and die back.
  • Plants will sometimes keel over as the roots rot.
  • A few plants may be affected at first, but this disease frequently stretchs to infect whole rows of plants.
  • Upon lifting affected plants, white fluffy fungal growth, a bit like cotton wool, can be seen around the bulb with tiny black globules, like poppy seeds among the fungus.
  • These black globules are the resting bodies or sclerotia of the white rot fungus.

How to  Reduce the Impact of Onion White Rot

The sclerotia fall into the soil where they wait for their next victim. When the temperatures reach 10-18 degrees centigrade during April the Allium roots stimulate the previously comatose fruiting bodies to germinate and infect new plants.

  • The gardener who must grow onions in infected ground will get better results by growing onions from seed rather than sets, becautilize sets have well developed roots when temperatures trigger disease activity.
  • Onions grown from seed have smaller roots and are therefore less likely to encourage attack.
  • White rot stretchs sideways through the soil and intertwined roots encourage rapid travel along the rows of plants. Space plants widely to slow the speed of onion white rot stretch.
  • removal the infected soil by taking out holes 10cm in diameter and replacing with uncontaminated soil before planting garlic may help.
  • Clean tools and boots well after cultivating contaminated ground.
  • In most cases a worthwhile crop of leeks can be grown on land which is badly infected with white rot.
  • Begin harvesting onions as soon as the bulbs are fully formed rather than wait for them to ripen.
  • utilize any onions which shows symptoms of the disease immediately, whilst they are still edible, and only store those bulbs which are completely free of the disease.

Elimination and Prevention of Onion White Rot

There is no control for this disease other than to avoid growing members of the Allium family on infected land for in any case eight years. UnHapppily like clubroot it can persist for much longer. It therefore makes sense to try to avoid letting the soil become infected in the first place by practising strict crop rotation and following a strict policy of garden hygiene including cleaning tools and boots after working on contaminated soil and never importing infected soil into uncontaminated ground.

Organic  Seeds

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Disease control on Tomato Plants

Thursday, June 10th, 2010
A scanned red tomato, along with leaves and fl...

Image via Wikipedia

No vegetable garden is complete without a few tomatoes. Who can resist a large, juicy Better Boy or a handful of cherry tomatoes? Like any plant, the tomato is susceptible to various ailment. The smart gardener will be prepared to combat ordinary predicaments, so as to insure a healthy harvest.

Ordinary predicaments with Tomatoes

There are certain ailment that affect tomato plants, and many are easily controlled. Sometimes, however, infected plants must be removed to protect the rest of the garden. Poor weather and soil states frequently determine which kinds of disease will attack tomatoes. ordinary predicaments to watch for include blossom end rot, timely and late blight, and specific kinds of soil fungus.

Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot is a most irritating predicament, and is easy to notice. Fruits look normal on the top, but will have large, black spots on the blossom end. This is cautilized by a calcium deficiency in the plant. Blossom end rot can be combated by adequate soil preparation before planting. The soil pH should be maintained at 6.5; compost and bone meal can be added to the bed to supply calcium. Once the predicament has already occurred, control is complex. Calcium can be added in the form of Epsom salts, crushed egg shells, or powdered milk. It may be best to remove the infected fruits.

Fusarium and Verticillim Wilt

Fusarium wilt is cautilized by a fungus in the soil. Leaves begin to yellow at the bottom of the plant, and they eventually turn brown and wilt. Plants will die if the fungus is not controlled, and any plants that show symptoms must be removed and ruined. No chemical control is offered for this fungus, and care must be taken when replanting in infected soil. Try buying fusarium wilt- resistant plants, which will have an “F” after the name of the plant on the seed packet.

Verticillim wilt is as well cautilized by a fungus that originates in the soil. The fungus can live in the soil for many years, so crop rotation is a good thought. Symptoms include leaves that turn yellow and dry up. This disease is most ordinary during cool weather. Affected plants should be removed.

Tomato Blight

Tomato blight is a ordinary annoyance for avid tomato growers. timely blight affects the foliage, stems, and fruit of tomatoes. Symptoms include dark spots on leaves; infected leaves as well die prematurely. Copper and sulfur sprays can keep this fungus from growing, but sometimes the plant will need to be removed if it is too far gone. This prevents further contamination in the garden. Late blight affects the leaves and fruit of tomatoes and stretchs rapidly. Cool, wet weather is generally the cautilize of late blight. Symptoms include gray spots all over leaves and white mold. utilize copper spray to control late blight.

Prevention is the Key

As with any garden ailment, prevention is key. Once these predicaments have developed, they are complex to control. Tomato growers should prepare beds thoroughly before planting, spray tomato plants timely with fungicide control, feed plants regularly, and try not to overwater or let plants dry out. Every home garden can boast of a bountiful tomato harvest if plants are well cared-for.

Organic Gardening Products

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Get rid of Plant Fungus from the Garden

Saturday, May 29th, 2010
Fungus

Image by elycefeliz via Flickr

Garden fungus can ruin any crop, but it does not have to.  Preventing fungus diseases before they destroy your crop is essential, and proper garden management may keep chemical fungicide off consumables.

The number one fungicide is developing a disease resistant garden. Garden location, right composting and garden management and occasional use of pesticide treatments all aide in the ability of a garden to ward off pests and disease. Proper care for a garden will result in healthy plants, excellent crop production and future soil health.

Garden Location

Beckerman recommends placing a garden in a sunny well-drained area. Too much shade encourages the growth of fungus. Stagnant water also promotes fungal infection in plants. Locating a garden in the highest point available with the least tree cover will help any garden resist fungi and various other diseases.

Composting

Composting is another suggestion from garden experts. Mixing natural organic matter in soil promotes the development of soil microbes necessary to combat fungus advancement. Healthy soil promotes healthy plants, and healthy plants generate their own fungicide in the form of healthy immune systems ready to fight off infection.
Proper Garden Management

Proper garden management is another excellent fungicide. Experts recommend watering in early morning so plants dry quickly and never working in the garden when plants are wet. Overnight wet plants promote the spread of infection. Working on wet plants promotes the spread of bacteria, nematodes and fungus. Experts also suggest using only enough fertilizer to meet plant needs, as over-fertilization–especially nitrogen rich fertilizers-will promote fungal infection.

Organic Fungicides

When all else fails, experts suggest, “reaching for the chemicals.” Some vegetable garden fungicides are available that meet organic specifications, and those persons wishing to remain chemical free will want to start with them. Fungicides with the active ingredients Copper or Sulfur are approved for organic production, according to Beckerman. These fungicides will not leave a residue on the vegetables or penetrate the plant and build up harmful levels of toxins. Experts warn that improper diagnosis of a fungus or improper use of a fungicide may result in treatment failure.

Chemical Fungicides

If no other option works to treat the infection of a vegetable garden, chemical fungicides might work. Chemical fungicides may leave harmful residues in or on vegetable garden contents. Experts list fungicides with the active ingredients chlorothalonil, Captan, Mancozeb and Maneb as garden fungicides not approved for organic gardening.

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